What is Rectified Tile and Why You Want It (or Not)

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My toes felt pretty raw by the end of the first day on a vacation visiting extended family. Was I walking on hot concrete around a pool or spending too much time at the beach?

No.

I was walking barefoot on the tile floor of my aunt’s new house.

I’ve never exposed my toes to a flooring with such a sharp edge on porcelain tile! On researching this phenomenon with aching toes, I discovered the 90 degree finish edge treatment is officially called “rectified tile”.

What is rectified tile?

When porcelain tiles are created there is some shrinkage. Tiles shrink from water evaporation during the firing process. While manufacturing tiles is a science there are just too many variables making each tile unique. The differences are are a result of any number of factors–the amount of water, humidity, a different lot mixture, etc. When creating a rectified tile the manufacturer guarantees a certain length and width by creating an oversize tile and then grinding it down to the exact measurement.

Note #1: Rectified tiles are only adjusted length and width wise, not depth. The firing process also impacts the final thickness of the tile, but this aspect is not “rectified”.

Note #2: Natural stone tiles are not labelled as rectified even though they are created the same way–ground down to the exact size. That is because they are not man made and shrinkage happened well before it is quarried.

Kinds of rectified tile

There are a couple different types of rectified tile. Some, such as the tile mentioned above, are a straight out hard 90 degree edge.

Other rectified tiles have a small bevel as found on twelve inch granite tiles. This style of rectified tiles is certainly easier on your toes.

Why choose rectified tile?

A rectified tile is a great thing for small grout lines where the tiles are butted closely against each other. This gives you the impression of a seamless look across an entire floor. ⅛” is a common grout line for rectified tile. However, the tile floor in my aunt’s house has what would normally be an insignificant ¼” grout line. A grout line of any significance (¼” included) with a non-beveled rectified tile hurts!

At the same time you should probably not attempt a grout line of ⅛” across a floor of any size without a rectified tile. With a small grout line there is less forgiveness with variances in tile size. The grout line would certainly look messed up when an extraordinarily odd tile is laid. With only ⅛” of a grout line it does not take much to be “extraordinarily” larger or smaller than the rest. Alternately, you could go through all your tiles and prioritize the center of the room. Then you can make sure the oddballs are used on the outside perimeter where they are cut down. You very well could, but it is certainly an extra step in insanity.

This is why rectified tiles are also perfect for exact grout lines. You don’t have to mess with odd sized tiles making your grout lines look semi sloppy because you had to scientifically eyeball the grout lines around the offending tile.

Reasons to avoid rectified tile

As I quickly discovered at my aunt’s house, rectified tile is harsh flooring on bare feet.

The problem is good looks are in stark contrast to the feeling of your feet hitting the grout line while walking. I’ll be the first to admit to some vanity including wearing high heels designed for a desk job. The difference is shoes are easily removed and flooring is permanent. When you push off as you walk, your toes grind against the sharp edge of the rectified porcelain tile.

Compare this against the edge of a regular tile porcelain or ceramic tile:

And this beautiful tumbled travertine floor at my good friend’s house:

Not only is it easy to walking on, but the bonus of tumbled travertine is that it is VERY forgiving when aligning grout lines.

Both the regular tile and tumbled travertine are much easier on your toes.* A beveled edge rectified tile is certainly an improvement than a straight 90 degree edge.

Rectified tile is also more difficult to install.

Grout lines are easier to maintain when setting rectified tile, but variances in height are still a problem. Given, you always want your floors to be flat no matter what kind of flooring is on them. However, it is even more important when you install rectified tile. The hard edge is very unforgiving when you slide something across the surface. Imagine hitting a 90 degree edge while scooting your chair under a table. A curved or tumbled edge allows you to slide easier. Even a slight height variance between two tiles with a 90 degree edge will result in an abrupt stop.

When you are setting tile it much easier to slide a tile to the left or right while finagling a non rectified tile than it is to raise or lower a tile against the surrounding tile. Like I just said, you still want a flat floor with non-rectified tiles. Just installing rectified tile to necessary level of detail makes the job even more detail oriented than normal. It is a fine detail that will truly ruin a floor if overlooked.

Other Considerations

Due to chipping during the fabrication process, rectified tiles are normally offered in large formats of twelve inches or more. If you are looking for a more continuous design flow with smaller grout lines you are probably looking at larger format tiles anyway. Just in case though, larger tiles also make a space look larger from the optical illusion aspect.

Just as it is more prone to chipping during the manufacturing process, the tile is also more likely to chip when used on an outer edge such as a step or a corner. Consider using a finish edging like Schluter Jolly, shown below, to protect this edge.

This Schluter JOLLY metal edging protects the outside of the travertine window sill. The same treatment can be used on a step with rectified tiles.

In all fairness, regular round edge tile will also chip, as demonstrated by my own home’s entry level step.

However, it would probably be worse if it was rectified tile. It also could be better if whoever laid the tile had put on a protective metal edge.

At the same time, the fact that a rectified tile a sharp edge is a bonus when you need a smaller size tile to fit along the edge. Check out the following picture of the same entryway of my home.

The tile is ceramic or porcelain 16″ x 16″ tile. As you can see the front step edge required trimming since it is wider than it is long.

The cut edge is on the inside of the walkway.

No, it is not something most people notice. However, which end was cut would be indistinguishable if were a straight edge 90 degree rectified tile. Even if it was a beveled edge rectified tile that is easy enough to replicate with a grinder and diamond polishing pads (see this post on DIY tile edging for “sometimes you need a mitered edge”). This is not possible with a round edge tile. You cannot replicate the pattern, coloring, or curve of the rest of a porcelain or ceramic tile like you can with a natural stone.

Despite the fact there is an extra step in the manufacturing process there really is not a significant difference in price. Interestingly enough, when I went to Floor & Decor for research on this post, I found two similar looking 12″ x 24″ tiles–one rectified (Classic Bianca) and one non-rectified (Englewood Bone). The rectified tile is twenty cents cheaper and from my artistic pallet, is the more attractive choice.

You decide.

Here are a couple tell tale signs if you are ever questioning if you are indeed looking at a rectified tile. First, normally you can tell from the edges if it looks like it is ground down. If you are still unsure flip it over. Sometimes manufacturers produce large pieces of tile and cut it into several rectified pieces. You’ll see the normal flat edge pattern across a couple sides and see the pattern is interrupted on one edge.

Rectified tile sleuthing!

In the end…

The edge for your tile can make a huge difference in the looks and comfort of your floors. There are many places where rectified tile looks sharp. Offices, shower surrounds, places of worship and other similar locations are good candidates. Notice these are mainly places where you keep your shoes on…or don’t walk.

If you fall in love with the look of a continuous floor make sure you talk with your installer about your concerns and the size of the grout line. Or, if you are laying the tile yourself, get ready to go off the deep end on ensuring your floor is flat.

*It’s the same sort of thing when you’re walking barefoot along the seawall on the beach.

Compare the new concrete against the old seawall in Galveston, TX.

From the looks of the picture it might seem like the concrete would be easier because it has less pockets and more uniform however even with the divots the old seawall is worn smooth against hard edges. The newer concrete is like a rough sandpaper.