How to Bullnose Tile: Two Options

by Margaret · Published June 19, 2017 · Updated January 18, 2020

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As mentioned in the first part of this series, once you have mastered learning how to bullnose tile there are so many benefits! This skill pays dividends many times over. You are also able to show up to any jobsite and perform your art on your own schedule.

The basic idea behind a bullnose profile is to create a polished curve to finish the edge of the tile. This can be done to any surface you are finishing: a countertop, backsplash, shower surround, shower shelves, bathtub surround, etc.

When you learn to how to bullnose tile there are two general steps. You make an initial pass creating the curve using the profile wheel on a wet tile saw. Then, you use a slow variable speed grinder along with polishing pads to polish the initial curve. Once you complete these steps you mortar the tile to your substrate, grout, clean the surface and enjoy!

In experimenting and learning how to bullnose tile, I have discovered two different methods. The determining factor between these options is the size of the tile being profiled. The specific steps I use are outlined with two sets of directions. Admittedly there is quite a bit of overlap, but if you only want to print one set of directions you are good to go.

Tools needed for this project:

How to Bullnose Tile– Large Tiles:

Setup your wet tile saw.
Lay your tiles out on the ground and organize them in the most aesthetically pleasing pattern. This is one of the main reasons *you* are doing this! Make it as beautiful as possible!
Write your system (numbers, alphabet, roman numerals, klingon?) on the back. Consider what you are using to mark you pieces. No black Sharpies for you if you are using stone like onyx or Carrara Marble!
Cut down your pieces of tile to the necessary size.
Add additional indicators showing which edges need to be profiled. This is one place where I use a Sharpie no matter what kind of tile needs profiling. I mark the part that needs to be cut off. Make sure the arrows are hard to miss, but not too big: there should be no red Solo cup worthy reminants of arrows in your bathroom!
Notice the 4 small arrows at the top of the tile marking the edge to be profiled.
Replace the diamond blade with the bullnose profile wheel.
Adjust the water nozzles to account for the size of bullnose profile wheel.
If needed, set a spacer to protect your tile tray from the wider profile blade. Perhaps your saw may not need this, but mine does.
Tile spacer preventing the profile blade from eating my tile tray backstop. Notice the “bite” marks in the spacer from previous cuts.
Adjust the profile wheel to the correct height. (Figure 1)
Figure 1*
Make sure you reviewed Figure 1. For real.
Gently guide each tile through the profile blade. DO NOT PUSH! OK, you have to push a little otherwise it will not go on it’s own, but DO NOT push hard. At. all. Your saw is doing some serious work.
Break out the low RPM variable speed grinder and diamond polishing pads.
Line up all the tiles in order of installation.
Clamp the tiles down to some surface allowing yourself clearance for the grinder to pass over the curve for the entire length of the tiles as they are lined up. The idea is to have a continuous curve that matches perfectly from tile to tile.
Five 18″ travertine tiles lined up and C-clamped to a super fancy working surface: a ladder.
Use some kind of tape to protect the line where the curve is supposed to meet the face of the tile. I used painter’s tape as pictured. This is your polishing guide. You want to stop the grinder before crossing the edge of the tape.
Go through each grit of diamond polishing pads (coarse to fine/ lower number to higher number) passing back and forth in a circular motion. The circular motion prevents angles and lines from forming on what should be a curve.
If you see scratches that are not coming out with your current grit, you can go back to a previous rougher grit. Sometimes you miss a spot and you need to go back more than one grit. Sand down the rough spot making sure to expand the area so that it blends (feathering) seamlessly. Then proceed back to the finer grit.
Notice if the result of your current polishing pad matches the finish surface of the tile. Do not proceed to the next finer grit pad if your edge matches. For example, the travertine pictured does not have a high gloss polish like the Dark Emperador marble right next to it.
Notice the dark brown marble pieces nicely reflect my neighbor’s house. The travertine does not.
Install the tile.
Enjoy for years to come!

I should be more positive about steps 7 and 8 because I am certainly not selling this very well. There are so many semi-frustrating house projects. In the big scheme of things, this one is no big deal. It is just annoying when you are going through the process. On the other hand, who can resist a flow chart with expletives, beer and a Holy Donut?

Why is there a second option?

When I chose the design in the first picture (top of post) I knew the first process was not going to work for me. It involved too many small pieces. As much as I love my wet tile saw, there was no way I was putting my fingers that close to the profile wheel. Second, the thought of wielding a grinder and somehow securing all these uneven little pieces was just as terrifying. So I figured out a different process.

One caveat– this only works when you are working on an outside corner. The picture is better than any description I can provide. It shows the 3″ tile along the outside wall curving around to my bathtub shower surround on the right.

The primary difference between the two options of how to bullnose tile is when the tiles are installed. The second method requires mortaring the small tile pieces into place prior to polishing.

How to Bullnose Tile– Small Pieces:

Determine the length of bullnose required.
Lay your tiles out on the ground and organize them in the most aesthetically pleasing pattern.
Write your system (numbers, alphabet, roman numerals, wookie?) on the back. Again, evaluate what you are using to mark so nothing bleeds through.
Setup your wet tile saw.
Replace the diamond blade with the bullnose profile wheel.
Adjust the water nozzles to account for the bullnose profile wheel.
If needed, set a spacer protecting your tile tray from the wider profile blade.
Adjust the profile wheel to the correct height. (Figure 1)
Make sure you reviewed Figure 1. For real.
Gently guide each tile through the profile blade. Do not push hard.
Replace the bullnose profile wheel with the diamond blade.
Cut down your pieces of tile to the necessary size.
Install the tile.
Allow time for the mortar to fully cure then break out the grinder and diamond polishing pads.
Use some kind of tape to protect the line where the curve is supposed to meet the face of the tile. In the previous picture I used painter’s tape. This is your polishing guide: you want to stop the grinder before crossing the edge of the tape.
Go through each grit of diamond polishing pads (coarse to fine) passing back and forth in a circular motion. The circular motion prevents angles and lines from forming on what should be a curve. Try not to hit the wall.
I nicked the drywall when polishing the tiles in place. This is a real unsarcastic example of “just needs paint”! Note to self: please put a drop of primer and a drop of color coat right here.
If you see scratches that are not coming out with your current grit, you can go back to a previous rougher grit. Sometimes you miss a spot and you need to go back more than one grit. Sand down the rough spot making sure to expand the area so that it blends seamlessly. Then proceed back to the finer grit.
Notice if the result of your current polishing pad matches the finish surface of the tile. Do not proceed to the next finer grit pad if your edge matches.
Enjoy for years to come!

Choose the best option for your project and try it out!

Flipping the switch to turn on the tile wet saw with the heavier profile wheel is intense, whether it is your first time ever or two hundredth time (in one day). The hefty blade takes a few moments longer to get up to speed than a regular diamond blade. Once it does, it will chew up any stone or porcelain you throw at it. The polishing portion is always breathtaking as you see the natural colors become more visible as you switch to finer grit pads.

Still Doubting Your Ability?

Practice is the key when learning how to bullnose tile. Cut up a practice tile and try it out. Like you, I was not immune to jitters of messing up high demand areas, but I was highly motivated. I sent off my first 16-20 feet of countertop tile to be professionally done. Then it was time to learn to finish the remaining 66′ of bathroom surround tile edge.

My current residence showcases 2.5 new bathrooms of which two countertops (7 feet total) and backsplashes (10 feet total) display DIY bullnose. I also manufactured a bullnose profile on one bathtub shower surround (24 feet along with 2 feet along the edge of the shelves). Every last window has a decorative tile sill. Three of them use scrap pieces of Schluter JOLLY brushed nickel profile from my master bathroom remodel. The remaining 12 windows (even the laundry room) all sport 34′ of bullnose. I have also bullnose profiled a friend’s bathroom countertop. I can safely say I have overcome my jitters of messing up. You can too!

In addition to experience and living in a more luxurious house, there is a cost savings in DIY bullnose. The 77 linear feet in my own house has also saved me over $770 in just the cost of profiling (not including tax or the cost of installation labor).

You too can become addicted and do this! Or even better, if you see room for improvement please share your additional and/or different steps. Once again, I’m not a licensed contractor and just figuring this out as I go. I am always up for learning how to bullnose tile a better (and hopefully easier) way!

Before you break out your tools check out the next installation in this series: Sanity Saving DIY Bullnose Tile Trim Tips

If you missed the first post in this series of how to bullnose tile you can check it out here: Motivation for Learning to Bullnose Tile

*Figure 1 features a sea salt dark chocolate Maine potato donut from The Holy Donut and Shipyard Export beer. For full disclosure, these tasty vittles were not enjoyed during any work related to houses, but they sure would be if I lived in Portland, Maine! Also, I am not responsible for any donuts you *have* to eat after looking at the Holy Donut website. 😉 I think I may have to make a donut run tomorrow…